Warming and luxurious, classic cheese fondue from Switzerland is one of those dishes that grounds and centers a party, but is playful and entertaining to its core. With its ability to suit dozens of options for dipping and cozy up to a range of wine pairings, it inspires experimentation and friendly conversation.
This particular recipe comes from chef Matt Zubrod, who since 2015 has been the culinary director for Aspen’s the Little Nell luxury hotel, whose fine-dining restaurant Element 47 holds a Wine Spectator Grand Award for its wine list. At the base of Aspen Mountain, the Little Nell is one of the toughest reservations in this Colorado town, being the only ski-in, ski-out hotel there.
Cheese fondue is a wintertime staple at the Little Nell, always in high demand among those who’ve spent long days on the slopes. Zubrod even makes it for his family during Christmas time; it’s become a go-to dish for how low effort and high impact it is. “I didn't think people were [going to be impressed] or think it’s a big deal to have fondue in my house and drink wine, but people were going bananas over it,” says Zubrod. “They had such a great time.”
Zubrod uses two different cow’s milk Swiss cheeses to create a gooey, luscious fondue. Emmentaler is known for its buttery aroma, nutty palate and elasticity. Gruyère is bolder and more distinctive—combining fruity, earthy and nutty notes—while also smooth and creamy, melting in a heavenly way. (For some choice cheeses from some of Switzerland’s best creameries, check out “Enjoying the Best of Switzerland” from the Oct. 15, 2023, issue).
“I've tried it with different cheeses—there are so many fun ones to play with—but it’s also a hard game to get the temperature right on the cheese,” explains Zubrod. “[In the recipe] I put cornstarch in there so [the heat] doesn’t separate the fat content of those cheeses; it helps towards emulsifying.”
Zubrod’s version of cheese fondue is lightly aromatic, but not overpowering. He just rubs a clove of garlic around the pot then discards it, rather than mincing the garlic and incorporating it into the mixture. To give a bit more brightness and depth to the melted cheese, his recipe calls for a combination of dry white wine and kirsch, a clear German brandy distilled from Morello cherries. “For my recipe, it’s essential… . [Additional] dry white wine is a perfectly eligible substitute, but you won’t get that tart cherry flavor from that.”
Some of Zubrod’s favorite items to dip into cheese fondue include roasted veggies, like cauliflower or mushrooms, and smoky Spanish chorizo. “There are veggies, but people eat mostly the bread,” he joked.
Last Christmas, when Zubrod was making fondue for his own family, he turned to Element 47 wine director Chris Dunaway for a pairing that would cut through the rich and fragrant cheeses. Dunaway went with a no-brainer: Swiss Chasselas, the most-planted white grape in the country synonymous with Alpine wine. Known as a light, acidic and relatively neutral grape, Chasselas readily reflects the terroir where it is grown. Dunaway’s selection, L’Alpage Chasselas 2020, is grown in the village of Mont-sur-Rolle, on clay limestone and schist soils along the upper Rhône River, which gets its start in the Swiss Alps and passes through Switzerland’s Vaud district before entering France.
Following that train of thought, our editors selected six stellar white wines hailing from Alpine regions. These picks, from Savoie in France and Alto Adige in Italy, are light-bodied with vibrant acidity, offering citrus and orchard fruit balanced by stony or saline minerality—just the sort of mouthwatering wines to match up with the hearty appetite that comes from an exhilarating day spent in brisk mountain air.
Chef Matt Zubrod’s Cheese Fondue
Ingredients
- 230 grams (1/2 pound) shredded Gruyère cheese
- 230 grams (1/2 pound) shredded Emmental cheese
- 28 grams (2 tablespoons) cornstarch
- 1 garlic clove, peeled
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 14 grams (1 tablespoon) fresh squeezed lemon juice
- 14 grams (1 tablespoon) cherry brandy, such as kirsch
- 3 grams (1/2 teaspoon) dry mustard
- Pinch of nutmeg
- Suggested accoutrements: crusty baguette, roasted cauliflower florets, roasted cremini mushrooms, sliced apples, roasted fingerling potatoes, Spanish chorizo and cornichons.
Special Equipment
- Ceramic fondue pot
Preparation
1. In a small bowl, coat the cheeses with cornstarch and set aside. Rub the inside of the ceramic fondue pot with the garlic, then discard. Over medium heat, add the wine and lemon juice and bring to a gentle simmer. Gradually stir the cheese into the simmering liquid. Melting the cheese gradually encourages a smooth fondue. Once smooth, stir in cherry brandy, mustard and nutmeg. Arrange an assortment of bite-sized dipping foods on a lazy Susan around the fondue pot. Serves 4-6.
Six Alpine White Wines For Wintertime
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
ST.-MICHAEL-EPPAN
Pinot Bianco Alto Adige Schulthaus 2022
Score: 91 | $28
WS Review: This bright and minerally white is light on its feet, showing a focused range of white peach and white cherry fruit backed by racy acidity, with notes of pickled ginger, honeysuckle and pink grapefruit zest. Drink now through 2029. 15,000 cases made, 2,250 cases imported. From Italy.—Alison Napjus
ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA
Kerner Alto Adige Valle Isarco 2022
Score: 90 | $22
WS Review: This light-on-its-feet white is dry, tangy and orangey, with blood orange granita, orange blossoms and juicy tangerine acidity accented by hints of fresh tarragon and salty mineral. Drink now. 13,750 cases made, 3,300 cases imported. From Italy.—A.N.
JEAN PERRIER & FILS
Savoie Apremont Cuvée Gastronomie 2022
Score: 90 | $20
WS Review: More savory than fruit-driven, this deeply mineral expression opens up to reveal peach and white grapefruit flavors coated in crushed flint and fleur de sel. Dried green herbs line the toast-kissed finish, which shows racy energy. Drink now through 2025. 30,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported. From France.—Kristen Bieler
CAVEAU SAVOYARD
Savoie Apremont Signature 2022
Score: 90 | $19
WS Review: There's nice textural purity to this white, with orchard fruit and clementine notes showing pleasing roundness on the palate, while mouthwatering acidity builds in intensity through the bitter-tinged finish. Drink now through 2025. 20,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported. From France.—K.B.
LES CRÊTES
Petite Arvine Valle d'Aosta 2022
Score: 89 | $30
WS Review: Rich, laced with peach, honey and wild herb flavors. Defined by lively acidity, this lingers with flashes of lime and mint, showing fine, saline length. Drink now. 3,300 cases made, 600 cases imported. From Italy.—Bruce Sanderson
PETER ZEMMER
Chardonnay Alto Adige 2022
Score: 89 | $19
WS Review: A fresh, floral white, with orchard blossom and stone notes accenting ripe Gala apple, white cherry, ginger and anise flavors. Drink now. 3,300 cases made, 1,000 cases imported. From Italy.—A.N.
