New Yorkers are known for being the first to trends in style, music and food— so why should wine be any different? Wine Spectator asked 13 working sommeliers in the City that Never Sleeps what they’re drinking lately and which bottles they can’t stop thinking about. Their interests ranged from the OG classics like Burgundy and the Rhône to off-the-beaten-path picks such as wild-fermented, canned Concord wine, volcanic Pinot Noir from an oft-forgotten region of France and even sparkling sake.
What wines are you loving right now? What’s your current obsession, personally or professionally?
David Gordon, wine director at Grand Award winner Tribeca Grill, Tribeca
I am always drinking Châteauneuf-du-Pape no matter the season because it is my personal favorite. I was recently named an honorary citizen and, if I don't mention it, they might ask me for my key back. They are by far the best values for full-bodied reds in the market. But lately I have been very interested in drinking Sicilian wines, mostly from Mt. Etna. These wines made primarily from Nerello Mascalese are fresh and complex and just delicious; my favorite would be Marco de Grazia’s wines from Terre Nere. Of course, in another part of Sicily, Arianna Occhipinti is making superb wines from her eponymous domaine, and I especially love her Nero d’Avola.
Cedric Nicaise, managing partner and wine director of 2023 Best of Award of Excellence winner The Noortwyck, West Village
Personally, I love great beer. There is a new brewery a little bit outside New York City called Weiss Ferments; the brewer is an old colleague of mine, Erica O’Neal. There are a lot of different styles, but I’m into the rye pale ale, aptly named "Refresh Yourself." Nothing tastes better than an ice-cold beer after a long day of work.
Professionally, I'm always looking for great value from classic wine regions—who is making the best Bourgogne Blanc, or vin des pays Syrah from the Northern Rhône. Something like Pierre Girardin Bourgogne Blanc Eclat de Calcaire usually retails for around $40. Wines like this are important because everyone thinks the entry point for Burgundy is so high, but my job is to find the values and show people that you can enjoy wines from these great wine regions at a relatively affordable price.
Nikki McCutcheon, senior director of beverage for TAO Group Hospitality, including 2023 Award of Excellence winner Sake No Hana, Nolita
I can’t seem to get enough of sparkling reds, specifically Domaine Matray Perle Rouge Brut or a nice Lambrusco. These medium-bodied bubbles pair perfectly with backyard BBQs and heartier fall flavors. Perfectly served on a crisp night in front of a fire, they have all the depth and effervescence you want.
Jin Ahn, general manager and wine director at Best of Award of Excellence winner Noreetuh, East Village
If I didn’t say German Riesling, I would be lying to you. German Rieslings continue to speak to me in a soul-reaching type of way that always excites. Mosel is where my heart is, but I continue to find dry and racy styles from Rheinhessen and Rheingau exciting. One old standard that I keep returning to is a rare bottle of Hermann Ludes Thörnischer Ritch Spätlese Riesling from 1994. This bottle started off as part of my “25 years of age and older” Riesling page that has a haunting effect on me as a lover of older wines, but also serves as a reference point for many of my guests who are looking to learn about aged wines. It’s fun and exciting to drink a young Riesling, but it is a profound experience to drink a properly aged bottle of German Riesling.
Debbie Jones, wine director at 2023 Award of Excellence winner Clover Hill, Brooklyn Heights
My first love will always be Champagne. Recently, I have been exploring [other] traditional method sparkling wines. One of my favorites is 3B Extra Brut Rosé by Filipa Pato & William Wouters from the Beiras [region of] Portugal. This sparkling wine is a blend of Baga and Bical grapes. Filipa Pato and William Wouters practice biodynamic farming. They age the rosé for nine months and no dosage. The 3B rosé is dry and fruit-forward with cherry, strawberry and a wonderful layer of yeasty and brioche notes to round it out.
Francesco Grosso, wine director at Best of Award of Excellence winner, Marea, Midtown
I recently had a bottle of 2010 Edi Kante Vitovska Selezione at Four Horsemen in my neighborhood in Brooklyn. While I usually gravitate towards wine I don't know at Four Horsemen because the staff is so knowledgeable, I went for an old favorite and was so happy with the decision. At age 13, the wine had such youthful vibrancy and perfectly ripe fruit. It is the antithesis of the austere orange Vitovskas that some people are used to from the area around Trieste [in northeastern Italy] and played so perfectly with some seasonal vegetable-driven cuisine.
Emmeline Zhao, co-owner and wine director of Silver Apricot and Figure Eight, West Village
I'm crazy about Wild Arc Farm’s “Concord!” right now. Wild Arc is clearly having fun with this whole-cluster fizzy made from Concord grapes and packaged in a bright purple can. If you pour it into a glass first (which I think you should), the first thing that hits you is the aroma. The nostalgia of Welch’s leaps out of the glass, and you think you’re about to dive head-first into a juice box. But the palate will surprise you. It’s fermented dry, but maintains all the fruit you’d expect from Concord while striking a deft balance. The entire experience with this wine is tantalizing and just too much fun.
Jonathan Adler, wine director at 2023 Award of Excellence winner Noda, Flatiron District
Our wine programs at Shinji’s and Noda are primarily focused on Champagne, Burgundy and other Pinot Noir–producing regions as these [wines] are in my opinion the best pairing for the delicate flavors of sushi. Because of this, I am always reaching for wines that I’m not drinking on a regular basis, usually off-the-beaten-path or out-of-fashion varietals. Lately, I’ve really loved drinking Alsatian Pinot Gris and white wines from the Rhône. I really love the lower acidity in these wines and how they pair with richer flavors, enhancing them rather than cutting through, as is the trend with wine drinkers these days. I recently drank a 2017 Albert Boxler Grand Cru Sommerberg Pinot Gris that was outstanding with the lobster roll I was eating.
Natascha Patterer, wine director for the Bowery Group restaurants
The Casale del Giglio Viognier from Lazio is a seriously generous white wine that exudes white flower aromatics and an almost waxy, almost full-bodied palate, making it perfect for pairing with grilled white meats and shellfish. Viogner was born in the Rhône Valley, but I champion this particular style from coastal Italy; its fresh acacia character and notes of luscious apricots intermingle with a suggestion of sea spray on the palate, keeping it mineral driven and delicately balanced. I’d pair this with any BBQ situation you can think of, from spicy chicken kebabs to grilled pork chops.
David Bérubé, wine director of 2023 Best of Award of Excellence winner L’abeille, Tribeca
I have been enjoying exploring the world of sparkling wine outside the Champagne region, such as wonderful brut nature Prosecco, domestic Blanc de Blancs, vintage Corpinnat [a Spanish alternative to Cava] and even Awa Sake. I want to highlight that the sake category keeps on gaining in popularity and not only in fully Japanese restaurants. The demand and curiosity are increasing in our restaurants. Therefore, I am learning so much every day: brewery profiles, new trends, traditional techniques and, of course, the countless pairing possibilities.
Cody Pruitt, owner and wine director at Libertine, West Village
I’ve been taking an even deeper dive into the Auvergne, a region that has so much going for it on a multitude of levels, yet is repeatedly undersung and forgotten when talking about wine (or France, in general). The region itself is primarily volcanic and significantly less settled than most other appellations in France, and one can find Chardonnay, Gamay d’Auvergne and Pinot Noir throughout. The idea of having a volcanic, almost feral French Pinot Noir is thrilling to me.
Joo Lee, wine director of 2023 Best of Award of Excellence winner Anto Korean Steakhouse, Midtown East
I have to admit, every time someone asks me this question, I can’t stop talking about my love affair with Burgundy. I’ve been very fortunate to have worked with Burgundy-focused lists for most of my career, and most people would think I would be tired of it. But the perfumed aromatics that just scream a sense of place out of the glass never get old to me.
Chris Martorano, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner Lelabar, West Village
My everyday wine is usually a pét-nat. They are a fun, easy drinking option with plenty of variety. Lately, I have been obsessed with a delicious pét-nat by Birichino made from Malvasia Bianca and a little Muscat. I love the floral aromatics that lead into bold, tropical flavors. This pét-nat keeps me coming back, and I enjoy introducing it to my more adventurous guests who are open to trying something a bit wild.
