Every year, the same blaring alarm resounds across the wine industry: Younger generations are not drinking wine as much as we’d like them to. That statement comes with caveats; younger consumers are interested in consuming more wine, but that growth isn’t as evident yet as it is for other drinks like tequila or RTD cocktails. Are Millennials and Gen Z simply faced with too many drinks options, some of which are doing a better job connecting with them, or are they not exposed to it often enough in the first place? Whatever the reason, many things could help bring these consumers into the fold and create a lifelong curiosity about wine.
To gather inspiration, Wine Spectator asked 10 young wine professionals across the country for their ideas and the strategies that they themselves use to make wine more attractive to younger diners—from creating accessible wine education and encouraging exploration of underrepresented regions to updating label designs and information.
Wine Spectator: What can the wine industry do to better appeal to younger drinkers? And how are you encouraging younger diners to order wine?
Summer Knoop, owner and wine director of Award of Excellence winner Cafe Mamo, Grand Rapids, Mich.
When I was young and first getting into wine, the things that kept me away from ordering bottles were the feeling of pretension when looking at a wine list and thinking the staff would judge me based on what I picked. Plus, I was flat broke, so the idea of spending $40 on a bottle of wine in a restaurant was daunting, especially considering I might not even like it!
I see this still with young guests that come into Café Mamo, so we offer half off bottles at happy hour just to ease people into the idea of sharing a bottle with the table. From there, our entire philosophy revolves around simplicity and being unpretentious, so our list has bottles that fit every price range from broke college student to avid wine collector.
Hugo Bensimon, wine director of Grand Award winner Grill 23, Boston
I think the wine industry should appeal to young customers through the actual label itself. I find that a lot of “natural” wines have gone the direction of sprucing up their wine labels with much less of a classic look and appealing towards the younger demographic. We see it mainly in retail, but a lot of today’s classic wines have had the same label for years. I know a lot of the younger crowd that picks a bottle of wine purely on what the label looks like.
I would love to see some classic wineries, with great wine, update their seemingly outdated labels and reflect a more fun approach towards their wines. I think we have had a strong correlation with the more expensive a bottle of wine is, the more the label needs to seem classic and plain. I would love to see that change.
Jacqueline Pirolo, managing partner and wine director of Award of Excellence winner Macchialina, Miami Beach, Fla.
I think wineries and importers should start including more information on the actual bottles. Or they could offer more information through the use of QR codes that will link you directly to their site about the wine. We offer QR codes on the back of all of our wine club wines; that way, when a guest pops the bottle open, they can scan it and learn more about the bottle they are drinking.
Christopher Gaither, co-owner of Ungrafted, San Francisco
One thing the wine industry lacks is diversity. There are efforts being made to address it, but it is a huge factor in getting more people interested in wine. We must work to appeal to different ethnic, cultural and socioeconomic sectors by being welcoming and creating safe spaces for people to enjoy wine (on their own terms) without feeling judged or intimidated.
Camille Lindsley, co-owner and wine director of HAGS, New York City
I think the wine industry is considered by many younger drinkers as something more static and stuck in an older era than it really is! It’s ever-evolving, and I think some of the most compelling developments in the wine world are in response to many issues younger drinkers can connect with, such as climate change and labor movements. There are tons of new wine regions cropping up all over the world thanks to the rise in hybrid grapes being able to grow in places vitis vinifera cannot take root, many wineries following co-op models, and lots of producers utilizing fruit from abandoned orchards and vineyards to make really fun and delicious beverages. I find that younger wine drinkers are much more interested in wines with a story and a purpose.
Sarina Garibović, wine director and founder of sommelier service Ženska Glava, Minneapolis
Young consumers place less emphasis on brand loyalty and are more interested in exploring new wine producers, styles and regions. This open-mindedness presents an opportunity for wine professionals to stay informed about market trends, engage with young consumers about their preferences, educate these consumers and use our expertise to expand their palates rather than simply catering to their existing tastes.
Brady Brown, beverage director of Mattos Hospitality, including 2023 Best of Award of Excellence winners Estela and Altro Paradiso
I love the hospitality shown through a diverse wine list with everything from up-and-coming producers in established regions to old-school-cool winemakers in regions that get overlooked a bit. Having wines from multiple regions at different price points allows people to be a little more adventurous without feeling like they have to break the bank on a new producer from Corsica just to try some Biancu Gentile.
I think having sommeliers put on wine classes or dinners focusing on a specific region or producer is also a great strategy. It helps add an educational element in a fun and relaxed setting about a subject that can be intimidating. Really listening to guests and what they are looking for goes a long way!
Tyler Blair, wine director of Khâluna, Minneapolis
When appealing to young generations, the key is to create an experience. Young people want something to remember, something they can discuss. Expensive things are no longer a motivating factor. Keep it intriguing and interesting; however, keep it simple and approachable. It also helps to offer these by the glass so one can experience more, curating specific pairings to compliment each dish on our menu.
Bill Cox, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner, Counter-, in Charlotte, N.C.
I have heard a lot of chatter recently about the interest or disinterest of young people regarding wine. I think this is a complex topic that encompasses price points, sustainability, agricultural practices, health concerns and even portion control. Speaking for Counter-, I will say that I take great pride in introducing wine as food, and I think our audience across all age ranges is receptive. When you think about wine as an accompaniment to food, you begin to ask yourself, “Hmm, how will this sauce go with that fruit note or will the acidity change the mouthfeel of this wine?” In this, we have been very blessed to introduce people to experiences they otherwise would not try.
Many people are skeptical of sake, but a beautiful Junmai Daiginjo in tension with a gentle dashi [kombu seaweed stock] or complementing a fried plantain helps guests view the dining experience through a larger lens. With traditional grape cultivars, it is very much the same; we want to shatter your expectation of “I don’t like or only drink XYZ.” Part of this is force-feeding guests their vegetables, so to speak, but more so giving them the context and understanding to appreciate well-made wine.
Seriously, how did brussels sprouts become everyone’s favorite vegetable suddenly, when my parents refused to make them because of childhood trauma from the cruciferous terror. Young or old, peas or Moscato, if presented with a compelling technique and story, people will take interest.
Maddy Jimerson, wine director of Casa Tua, Aspen
A lot of young drinkers are intimidated by wine and feel like they need to be an expert to enjoy it. With the exception of Franzia and the slap-the-bag culture, our society has put wine on a pedestal: something for special occasions to be enjoyed only by a select few. To appeal to a younger crowd, this kind of culture surrounding wine needs to change. From marketing to selling wine on the floor, the wine industry as a whole needs to develop an element of approachability and, most importantly, humility.
I believe this can be accomplished by focusing on what’s behind the bottle. What I mean by that is selling the story. Who made it? Where is it from? If we can bring the story to life, then wine becomes more relatable, more approachable and a little less intimidating. I am currently developing a series of short films featuring Italy’s often-forgotten wine regions using this approach. I focus on the story of the producer, through which the audience can learn about the region. Instead of getting into the technicalities of the wine and how it was made, the films highlight the winemaker and his or her experiences. In this way, the audience can learn about the wine through the people who made it.
