This Hanukkah, don’t be afraid to put a spin on a classic. Instead of serving traditional latkes made just from potatoes, chef Eli Buliskeria suggests filling the fritters with additional veggies and putting out a full range of toppings so that everyone can create their perfect bite.
Buliskeria runs the kitchen at Mesiba, a fresh and festive take on Levantine cooking in the vibrant Brooklyn neighborhood of Williamsburg. The 2023 Award of Excellence winner features a wine list curated by Jerusalem-born sommelier Avriam Turgeman, known for his Grand Award-winning list at Nice Matin.
Located inside the bustling Moxy Hotel, close to the mouth of the Williamsburg Bridge, Mesiba presents an environment and menu (broken down by size) intended for gathering and sharing. The nishnushim (or snacks) section stars items such as oysters with a hibiscus horseradish mignonette or fluke crudo with red cardamom, while gadol refers to large plates, such as butterflied branzino or head-on prawns.
After working on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, Buliskeria appreciates the shift to Williamsburg, where he is surrounded by adventurous eaters. “One of the reasons I took this job was because it’s in Williamsburg,” explained Buliskeria. “Here, this young crowd has an open mind and they like to try new things.”
Born in the country of Georgia, Buliskeria moved with his family to Israel when he was two years old. He fondly remembers what it was like to travel between the floors of his apartment building, with each level unfurling the rich scents of home cooking from across the globe, influences that carry into his cooking today. “It was so exciting,” he reminisced. “You could smell it: the Ethiopian food, the Polish, the Yemeni food. It’s so diversified and beautiful.”
Buliskeria describes himself as an active kid who struggled to stay calm and relaxed. “One day I was pushed to the kitchen and everything changed,” he said. “Because instead of making problems, I was making people happy in my way.”
After a few years as a cook in the Israeli Defense Forces, Buliskeria was taken under the wing of Tel Aviv chef and television host Yonatan Roshfeld, who gave him a lot of exposure and responsibility as a young cook. Roshfeld encouraged Buliskeria to create simple and efficient dishes that show off the best of what’s at the market. “Whenever I am thinking about food, I am trying to think like Yonatan,” says Buliskeria. “He’s a mentor and became a good friend … . I like to think I’m his biggest fan.”
During all eight nights of Hanukkah, latkes become a tableside attraction at Mesiba. From carts running between the tables, guests are offered hot and crispy latkes with a large selection of accompaniments: nostalgic applesauce and sour cream, lox with crème fraiche, Levantine labneh with za’atar, braised lamb’s neck (“it’s super yummy”) or crème fraiche and caviar. “It sounds like a lot of options,” said Buliskeria. “We want to make the most fun out of it … we’re always looking for ways to celebrate and make people happy.”
Expanding upon classic potato-only latkes, Buliskeria adds sweet potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, adoring how they add a slight amount of sweetness and freshness to the fritters, without sacrificing crunch. “It’s a very ‘healthy’ flavor, which I really like,” he says. Jerusalem artichokes, also known as sunchokes, may seem daunting if you’re unfamiliar with them, but they are much like any other tuber. (You read that right: tuber. The name is a double misnomer; this root vegetable is neither from Jerusalem nor a type of artichoke). No need to peel before grating, just wash off any dirt.
To serve along with the crunchy, oily delights of latkes, Wine Spectator’s editors have selected 13 recently rated white and red Kosher wines from Israel and beyond. Pick a couple of options to please all the palates among your holiday guests and to complement a spread filled with anything from kugel to caviar.
Chef Eli Buliskeria’s Sweet Potato and Jerusalem Artichoke Latkes
Ingredients
- 1 medium sweet potato
- 3 medium russet potatoes
- 1 medium onion
- 3 cloves of garlic
- 2 pieces, or around 20 ounces, of Jerusalem artichoke (also known as sunchoke)
- Small bunch of dill, to taste
- 3 eggs
- 1/2 teaspoon of baking powder
- 1 tablespoon of salt
- Vegetable oil, for frying
- Your favorite latke toppings
Preparation
1. Peel potatoes, onion and garlic. Using a box grater, coarsely grate the potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, onion and garlic into a bowl. Season with salt and let sit for 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl lined with cheesecloth or a thin dish towel and wring the cloth to squeeze out any liquid into the bowl. Put the potato mixture into another medium bowl, and add the dill, eggs and baking powder. Mix until well incorporated. Let sit for 5 minutes.
2. In a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet, heat 1/4 inch of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Meanwhile, line a plate with paper towels.
3. Working in batches, scoop three or four 1/3-cup balls of the potato mixture into the pan, spacing them 2 inches apart. Using a spatula, smash each ball to flatten. Cook the latkes, flipping once, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to the paper towel–lined plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture, adding more oil to the pan between batches as needed. (Be sure to let the oil get hot before continuing with the next batch.) Serve immediately. Serves around 5.
13 Kosher Red and White Wines for Hanukkah
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options for Kosher wines can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
Whites
AGUR
La'Yam Judean Hills White 2021
Score: 90 | $54
WS Review: Shows luxurious yellow plum and citrus cream flavors enriched by oak spices and salted butter on a plush, yeasty palate. Gains a jolt of energy from chalky minerality. Pair with hearty fare, such as roast chicken or grilled pork loin. A lushly styled version that will have its fans. Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made, 10 cases imported. From Israel.–Kristen Bieler.
RECANATI
Roussanne-Marsanne Galilee Special Reserve 2020
Score: 90 | $51
WS Review: Mineral-driven and creamy, with high-toned honeysuckle, white peach and nectarine aromas. Silky in feel, with nicely integrated oak spices, fruit and crushed stone. Reveals impressive savory dimension, thanks to the mineral drive. Roussanne and Marsanne. Drink now through 2027. 670 cases made, 20 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
YATIR
Yatir Creek White Judean Hills 2020
Score: 89 | $55
WS Review: Glossy and rich, this stylish white has generous ripe fruit encased in toasty oak. Shows wet stone and salty mineral accents that anchor the lush, silky palate, while a thread of smoke glides through the finish. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche and Viognier. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
YATIR
Mt. Amasa White Judean Hills 2021
Score: 89 | $45
WS Review: A vibrant, flinty white blend, with smoke and crushed rock infusing a bed of peach and apple blossoms. Supple on the palate, with a thread of smoke weaving through the plush finish. Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Grenache Blanc. Drink now through 2028. 1,100 cases made, 300 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
AGUR
Judean Hills White 2022
Score: 89 | $40
WS Review: A lithe version introduced by delicate elderflower and citrus, this is grounded by chalky mineral underpinnings that add weight and substance. Offers nice roundness and citrus pithiness on the harmonious palate. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier. Drink now. 650 cases made, 40 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
RECANATI
Marawi Judean Hills 2021
Score: 89 | $36
WS Review: Shows intriguing quince and white fig character, with high-toned floral notes and a salty, briny vein of minerality that adds freshness, while oak spices add richness to the slightly chewy frame. Structured, clean finish. Drink now through 2028. 860 cases made, 50 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
Reds
YATIR
Yatir Forest Judean Hills 2020
Score: 91 | $98
WS Review: Sumptuous and generous, this is well-structured to hold its weight. Boasts a brooding mix of mocha, blackberry paste and tobacco notes supported by fine-grained tannins and filigreed with herbs, tobacco leaf and anise. Shows a generous robe of cedar that will integrate with time. A well-executed version of the seductive, modern style. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2035. 3,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
RECANATI
Special Reserve Galilee 2019
Score: 90 | $68
WS Review: Full-bodied and densely packed, this ripe version oozes with sappy black cherry and red currant, while generous singed garrigue, tobacco leaf and olive tapenade roam in the background. Gains shape and length through the vanilla-kissed finish, thanks to tangy acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Sirah, Carignan and Marselan. Drink now through 2030. 2,250 cases made, 150 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
DOMAINE DU CASTEL
Petit Castel Haute-Judée 2019
Score: 89 | $50
WS Review: An inviting wine, with an eclectic mix of cardamom, anise and singed alder infusing a base of stewed damson plum and red berry. The fresh finish features graphite and steeped tea notes. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Kosher. Drink now through 2027. 1,000 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
RECANATI
Petite Sirah Galilee Reserve
Score: 89 | $33
WS Review: A well-crafted, unadorned style, with marked freshness and savory meatiness woven with plush plum, raspberry and mocha flavors. Edged in graphite and black tea, this is earthy and burly on the palate, with good length, grip and energy. Drink now through 2028. 1,680 cases made, 100 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
TABOR
Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Adama 2017
Score: 87 | $20
WS Review: A medium-bodied red, offering cherry and plum underscored by cigar box and fresh tobacco, with olive tapenade and singed garrigue on the supple palate. Kosher. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported. From Israel.–K.B.
BACKSBERG
Merlot Paarl Kosher 2019
Score: 87 | $19
WS Review:This balanced, medium-bodied red delivers juicy black cherry and blackberry fruit accented by savory hints of tobacco, graphite and milled pepper. Kosher. Drink now. 894 cases imported. From South Africa.–Alison Napjus
DOMAINE BOUSQUET
Malbec Tupungato Alavida 2022
Score: 86 | $18
WS Review: Lush berry and plum flavors are the driving feature, revealing subtle spice details on the round finish. Kosher. Drink now. 5,500 cases imported. From Argentina.–Aaron Romano
