It’s the season of gratitude and giving, and the food world may have no better “patron saint” of the holiday than chef and activist José Andrés. The founder of World Central Kitchen (WCK), an organization that provides food relief to areas that have been devastated by natural disasters and wars, Andrés has preached time and time again about how food is an integral part of healing and connection.
This fall, Andrés published his latest cookbook The World Central Kitchen Cookbook: Feeding Humanity, Feeding Hope (Clarkson Potter Publishers, 2023, $35), which tells the story of the organization through the food it shares. Broken into sections according to its values (“Hope” for stews and warming meals, “Urgency” for sandwiches and food on the go), the cookbook is dedicated not only to those who provided aid, but also to those who sought it out. Interspersed with the recipes are essays and lessons from across the world.
“To me, the recipes we have are a Trojan horse, a way to share the stories from the people and communities who created them, who cooked them, who ate them,” Andrés wrote to Wine Spectator. “Behind each recipe is a history of creativity or necessity or pragmatism, and those are the stories we are trying to tell. And it’s not just about the dishes themselves … so many of the stories in the book focus on the people that World Central Kitchen has worked with around the world, their lives and the superhuman things that they do to take care of their loved ones.”
Andrés describes this cookbook as “an international comfort food cookbook.” One of the big challenges for WCK is that, with each new “activation,” the food needs to strike a balance between nutritious, available and familiar. This has meant ladling hot sancocho over white rice in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria, drizzling an herb-filled sauce over stewed chicken in the aftermath of the eruption of St. Vincent’s La Soufrière volcano or simply hitting the ground running and making bubbling mac and cheese for hungry people all over the world. “What is more ‘comfort food’ than a dish that nourishes us and gives us a sense of warmth in a very difficult time?” Andrés explained.
In keeping with WCK’s ethos of collaboration and appreciation, the cookbook can be seen as a group project, a collection of recipes from chefs and volunteers who have aided WCK and devoted time to feed others. Gracing the pages are recipes from star chefs such as Marcus Samuelsson’s spiced catfish sandwiches, Emeril Lagasse’s gumbo with salt pork and collards, and even Michelle Obama’s recipe for breakfast tacos.
This cornbread stuffing comes from San Francisco-based chef and television host Tyler Florence, who has volunteered for WCK over the years with his wife, Tolan. The Florences helped during the wildfires in Northern California and also when WCK rallied to help federal employees affected by the 2019 government shutdowns, creating their own mini-WCK headquarters in the Bay Area.
This recipe involves first making honeyed cornbread in a cast iron skillet. But if you are short on time, Florence suggests you can also easily use box mix or store-bought cornbread. After baking, the cornbread is cubed and added to a creamy, sage-laced gravy, then baked a second time for a simple dish that can easily become a new holiday staple.
While Andrés didn’t have any Thanksgiving traditions growing up in Spain, he came to love the holiday while raising his three daughters in the United States, he explained. One of his fondest Thanksgiving memories comes from when he was helping those affected by wildfires in Paradise, Calif., in 2018. “After they suffered such loss from the wildfires, we made over 700 turkeys with Guy Fieri, up before dawn to get the smokers going. Tyler Florence [brought] his whole team to help,” remembered Andrés. “Just to be at one long table, together, that is what it’s all about. Longer tables, people!”
For the Thanksgiving table, Andrés has handpicked some of his favorite wines—sparkling, white and red—to share with loved ones and pair with the full spread. Since Andrés is an outspoken advocate for the wines of Spain, it’s no surprise that two of them come from his home country: the terroir-forward cava Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc Extra Brut Vino Espumoso Blanc de Blancs 2021, at 90 points and $24 (also don’t miss out on their Cuvée José), and Mencía-lover Raúl Pérez’s La Vizcaína El Rapolao 2021. The other wine hails from Andrés’ U.S. home, Virginia winery Linden’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay 2019.
For even more options, our editors selected 16 other Cavas, Mencías and Chardonnays that will handle anything on the table, from deep-fried turkey to canned cranberry sauce.
Tyler’s Cornbread Stuffing
Reprinted with permission from The World Central Kitchen Cookbook: Feeding Humanity, Feeding Hope by José Andrés and World Central Kitchen with Sam Chapple-Sokol; foreword by Stephen Colbert, copyright © 2023. Published by Clarkson Potter Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House.
Ingredients
For the Cornbread
- 1 cup (120 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 cup (156 grams) coarse cornmeal
- 1/4 cup (53 grams) packed light brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 cup (227 grams) buttermilk
- 1/4 cup (84 grams) honey
- 2 large eggs
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick/225 grams) unsalted butter, melted
- 1/4 cup (50 grams) canola oil
- Softened butter for greasing the skillet
For the Stuffing
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 medium yellow onions, diced
- 1 bunch fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup chicken stock
- 1 large egg
- Softened butter for the baking dish
Preparation
For the Cornbread:
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk to combine the buttermilk, honey and eggs until smooth. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture and whisk well to combine until no lumps remain. Whisk in the melted butter and the canola oil. Let sit for about 10 minutes so the cornmeal can soften a bit before baking.
3. Butter a 10- to 12-inch cast-iron skillet and add the batter. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Leave the oven on but reduce the temperature to 375°F.
4. Let the cornbread cool to room temperature, then cut it into 1-inch cubes—either in the skillet or carefully invert the skillet to remove the cornbread and cut it on a cutting board. Set the cubes aside.
For the Stuffing:
5. In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and browned, about 15 minutes. Add the sage and cook while stirring for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the sage is fragrant. Scrape the contents of the skillet into a large bowl. Add the cornbread cubes, season well with salt and pepper, and give it a good toss with a wooden spoon until the mixture is well combined.
6. In a separate small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the cream, stock and egg until well combined. Pour the liquid over the cornbread mixture and stir until the stuffing is evenly coated.
7. Butter a 2-quart or 9×9-inch baking dish. Spoon the stuffing into the dish. Bake until hot and crusty on top, about 30 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
16 Great Wines for Thanksgiving
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search for Cava, Chardonnay and Mencia.
Sparkling
JUVÉ Y CAMPS
Brut Nature Cava Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva 2018
Score: 91 | $23
WS Review: This is distinctive for its abundantly fragrant notes of medicinal herbs and spices on the nose and then carried on the palate by the lively, delicate mousse. Well-knit, with vivid acidity framing flavors of macerated cherry and apricot with notes of salted almond. Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Drink now through 2026. 208,333 cases made, 10,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
ROGER GOULART
Brut Cava Organic Reserva 2020
Score: 90 | $25
WS Review: Lush berry and plum flavors are the driving feature, revealing subtle spice details on the round finish. Kosher. Drink now. 5,500 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
AGUSTÍ TORELLÓ
Brut Cava Mata Reserva 2018
Score: 89 | $23
WS Review: An appealing sparkler, exuding aromas and flavors of ripe peach and star anise, with a frame of vibrant acidity and a lively, creamy bead. Delivers details of grapefruit sorbet and spring blossoms as well as a minerally streak of saline and petrol, all joining the fruit and spice profile and lingering on the finish. Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 2,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
JOSEP MASACHS
Brut Nature Cava Masia Salat NV
Score: 87 | $15
WS Review: A firm Cava, with a spine of lemony acidity and a zesty bead, this features a minerally streak of saline and petrol, plus crunchy peach and pear fruit, citronella and vanilla notes. Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
JAUME SERRA
Brut Cava Bouquet NV
Score: 86 | $11
WS Review: Bright and lacy, this crisp and refreshing sparkler offers notes of nectarine, crunchy peach and lemon sorbet that show hints of thyme and crushed almond. Refreshing. Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Drink now. 65,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
White
RAMEY
Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2021
Score: 94 | $50
WS Review: This powerful version offers mouthwatering lemon curd, lime blossom and mandarin orange flavors that show notes of fresh-grated ginger and lemon verbena. Sea salt minerality gains momentum on the finish, where grace notes of toasted green tea, citrus zest and white pepper linger. Drink now through 2030. 7,176 cases made. From California.—MaryAnn Worobiec
DIATOM
Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2021
Score: 93 | $25
WS Review: This has a wonderful sense of restraint, with powerful Meyer lemon, yuzu and tangerine flavors mingling with peppery white flower notes and an appealing thread of sea salt crunchiness. Energetic, showing plenty of verve on the finish. Drink now. 9,000 cases made. From California.—M.W.
STOLLER
Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2022
Score: 92 | $25
WS Review: Straightforward and appealing for the apple and toasty cinnamon flavors, which linger on the finish. Drink now. 871 cases made. From Washington.—Tim Fish
EL ENEMIGO
Chardonnay Mendoza 2021
Score: 91 | $26
WS Review: Presents itself as a fresh, clean and vibrant style, with spicy floral and slate details around crisp apple and Asian pear flavors, before gathering sneaky roundness and length. Reveals a juicy mandarin orange note on the smooth finish, with subtle vanilla and clove accents. Drink now through 2028. 6,400 cases made, 5,000 cases imported. From Argentina.—Aaron Romano
WILLIAM FÈVRE
Chablis Domaine 2021
Score: 91 | $45
WS Review: An expressive Chablis marked by gooseberry, flint, stone and lemon aromas and flavors, with an accent of fresh herbs or spring meadow adding a green element. Tangy and long. Drink now through 2028. 5,000 cases imported. From France.—Bruce Sanderson
MARCHESI DE' FRESCOBALDI
Pomino White Castello di Pomino 2021
Score: 90 | $20
WS Review: This elegant white is introduced by delicate white flower aromas, with flavors of apple, lemon cake and a hint of stony minerality. Charming and harmonious, with a lingering finish of fruit and chalky, minerally accents. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2027. 25,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported. From Italy.—B.S.
Red
ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO
Mencía Viño de la Tierra de Castilla y León Señorío de la Antigua 2021
Score: 92 | $38
WS Review: Packing serious garrigue and minerally smoke and earth on the nose, this is aromatic and savory up front, then dense and compact on the palate. Layered with fine-grained tannins, this shows a tightly meshed range of blackberry paste and dried raspberry fruit, Earl Grey tea leaf and graphite flavors that open in the glass and linger on the finish. Drink now through 2031. 8,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS RAÚL PÉREZ
Mencía Bierzo Ultreia St.-Jacques 2021
Score: 91 | $22
WS Review: Crushed blackberry and boysenberry fruit is dark and ripe in this red, accented by hints of dried lavender, woodsy spices and a subtle underpinning of loamy earth and mineral. Fresh, with light, creamy tannins. Drink now through 2026. 10,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO
Mencía Viño de la Tierra de Castilla y León Marqués de Toro Single Vineyard 2021
Score: 91 | $34
WS Review:Exudes an expressive range of raspberry coulis, spiced orange peel, wild herb and dark chocolate aromas and flavors set in a creamy, medium-bodied frame. Fresh, with light tannins and accents of mineral and spices on the finish. Drink now through 2030. 4,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS LUNA BEBERIDE
Bierzo Finca Luna Beberide 2021
Score: 90 | $30
WS Review:A well-knit red, with fine, chewy tannins providing muscle to the structure, though this is medium-bodied and fresh overall. Reveals rich minerality enmeshed with flavors of baked raspberry, herbed green olive, fig cake and bay leaf. Let this open a bit in the glass and enjoy with food -- grilled chicken or pork comes to mind. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
PAZO DE MONTERREY
Mencía Monterrei 2021
Score: 88 | $17
WS Review: A crisp, brambly red, with heavy herbs, graphite and spices accenting the tangy mix of crushed black raspberry, orange peel and fresh earth notes. Drink now. 3,750 cases made, 1,000 cases imported. From Spain.—A.N.
