As the home of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cornas, Condrieu and other globally known wines, France’s Rhône Valley is an acclaimed wine region. It’s also an ancient one and, as we recently learned, it’s been keeping a few more centuries-old secrets.
This past November, the Institut National de Recherches Archéologiques Preventives (INRAP)—overseen by France’s Ministry of Culture—announced that its archaeologists uncovered an ancient winery near the town of Laveyron in the Rhône’s Drôme department. Beginning their dig in May 2023, archaeologists found the ruins in a 4-acre site set to become a heavy goods vehicle parking lot for Saica Group, a leading recycled paper manufacturer. Excavations will finish in January 2024. So who was making vino here?
Based on evidence so far (which researchers are still studying), it looks like the winery may date to the first century A.D., and was possibly built upon structures dating even earlier. According to INRAP operations and research manager Pascale Réthoré, post holes at the site might indicate the presence of a palisade built by people from the Iron Age's La Tène culture (possibly around 50 or 30 B.C.).
Researchers are uncertain how the site may have been used at that time, but they’ve also found evidence of ceramic dolia (terracotta vessels frequently used to make wine) and amphorae fragments in dumpsites near the ruin.
During the reign of Emperor Augustus, at some time between 27 B.C. and 14 A.D., ancient Romans added a three-room structure and a courtyard to the site, along with walkways and galleries.
“[It] probably already had a small infrastructure dedicated to wine,” Réthoré told Wine Spectator via email, noting that there is evidence of wood casks at the site. Later, Romans expanded the winery, which featured presses, cellars and basins for collecting grape juice. (Incidentally, winemaking at this time may have included the addition of ingredients not suited for modern palates). “[The winery] undoubtedly expanded with commercial success,” Réthoré explained. “The proximity of the Rhône [river] undoubtedly helped in its success.”
What More Could We Learn About This Ruin?
Notably, the winery ruins are located within the territory of the Allobroges, a Gallic people who made vinum picatum, a favorite wine among ancient Romans. (And we know how much Romans loved their wine). Per Réthoré, it’s impossible to confirm this until researchers analyze juice residue from the winery’s basins; there’s also a chance archaeologists will find grape seeds in wells at the site during January excavations. The grapes probably came from the northern reaches of the Rhône, according to Réthoré.
“Seeing the interest of ancient wine specialists in this site, yes, this discovery seems exceptional!” said Réthoré. “It seems that the quality of the wine of this region, and therefore probably of its terroir, has been recognized since antiquity.”
Nonetheless, development is set to continue at the site after archaeologists complete their excavations and researchers finish studying all evidence. Unfortunately, this does mean that the ruins could be destroyed. So raise a glass of Syrah and say cheers to the ancient winery: Tempus fugit!
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