Perhaps you can relate: I think my love language has become steak and potatoes. Around once a month at about noon, a text will flash on my phone from my boyfriend: “Steak and potatoes tonight?” It’s become our way of saying: “I’ve had a rotten day, and I just need something delicious when I get home.”
Steak au poivre easily meets that need: Meaty and robust, spicy and creamy all at once, it requires a little less than 20 minutes on the stove. Paired with a sanguine, juicy Rhône red? It’s a classic for a reason and can turn any ridiculous day into a romantic evening. Served alongside a light salad and, of course, potatoes, this is a great option for an intimate Valentine’s Day feast at home.
My approach is a bit contrarian: I am anti–peppercorn crust. I know it’s traditional for steak au poivre, but coating one or both sides of a steak in peppercorns makes the crust prone to burning and developing an acrid taste. Or the peppercorns decide to not stay on at all, leaving you to think silly things like “I should have bought a stickier cut of steak.”
Instead, I like to season the steak itself with ground pepper and add freshly cracked peppercorns only into the sauce. If you have a mortar and pestle, that’s great for breaking the peppercorns down almost into quarters, but a rolling pin and plastic bag work just as well. I incorporate the peppercorns right when I start making the au poivre sauce—sauteeing them in leftover butter and steak jus after basting—because that allows them to cook more thoroughly and get a little softer. The fruitiness of the peppercorns also seeps into the oils for a bit longer, building flavors from the get-go. A combination of crème fraîche and heavy cream (second contrarian viewpoint there) provides both sweetness and lactic tang, but not too much of either, rounded out by a glug of sultry Cognac.
For a meal for two, I think one New York strip steak is ideal (around 3/4 pound, 1-inch thick). It’s not too much meat and is usually well-marbled. When cooking a steak on a stove, I use a copper pan or cast iron skillet because they can get ripping hot and heat evenly. After searing the steak on all sides and basting it in butter and aromatics, I take my steak off the heat early—at around 115° F—to achieve medium-rare. That’s because you want to let it rest for around 10 minutes under aluminum foil, allowing it to release its juices for a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The steak will continue to cook as it rests (with the internal temperature rising around 10° F more), particularly when the heat is contained under foil; it’s a safety net to ensure you get succulent, perfectly pink steak every time.
To make this a complete meal, serve with a salad with a light vinaigrette (arugula, lemon and olive oil is my go-to) and French fries or crusty bread to sop up any extra sauce. Or you can go above and beyond and serve it alongside more sophisticated sides (see below) from Wine Spectator’s collection of recipes, from Thomas Keller’s beet and endive salad to creamy fondant potatoes.
While Cabernet is considered the king of steak pairings, I lean towards Rhône reds for my steak nights. Those blended with Grenache from the Southern Rhône are fruit-forward, filled with cherries, berries, plums and other red fruit. Their backbone of hearty Syrah—which is the only red grape variety used in the Northern Rhône—provides the brawn to stand up to an assertive sauce and the pepper and spice to complement the au poivre. One final contrarian suggestion: Try this dish with a winter-appropriate dark rosé, such as a Bandol.
Steak au Poivre for Two
Ingredients
- 1 1 inch–thick New York strip steak (around 3/4 pounds)
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil (vegetable, grapeseed, etc.)
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 3 large garlic cloves, smashed
- 6 sprigs of thyme
- 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
- 1 large shallot, diced
- 3 tablespoons Cognac
- 1/4 cup crème fraîche
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Preparation
1. At least 30 minutes before cooking, take the steak out of the fridge, pat dry and salt on all sides. Let it rest on the counter. Meanwhile, crack the black peppercorns using a mortar and pestle until all of them are in quarters. (Alternatively, put the peppercorns into a plastic bag and grind with a rolling pin until they are small enough.) Set aside.
2. Add the oil to a frying pan and set on high heat. Using a pepper mill, grind pepper over the steak on all sides, and when the oil is shimmering, add the strip steak. Turn the steak every 2 to 3 minutes until each side is golden brown. (If there is a fat cap, sear that as well.)
3. Turn the heat down to medium-low and add 2 tablespoons butter, the garlic and thyme sprigs. With a spoon, baste the steak, being sure to turn it over to coat both sides, around 3 minutes each. For a medium-rare steak, use a meat thermometer to determine when it has reached an internal temperature of 115° F, then remove it from the heat, place it on a cutting board and tent with aluminum foil. Discard the garlic and thyme.
4. To the juices remaining in the pan, add the cracked peppercorns and increase the heat to medium. Gently stir until the peppercorns become fragrant, around 3 minutes. Add the diced shallots and continue stirring until they turn translucent. Pour in the Cognac and continue to stir until you can no longer smell the alcohol, around 5 minutes.
5. Then, turn the heat to low and add the crème fraîche and heavy cream. Stir until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but is still pourable. (If it’s too thick, add more cream; if too thin, add more crème fraîche). Salt to taste.
6. Slice the steak and plate, then pour the au poivre sauce over the meat. Serves 2.
Suggested Side Dishes for Steak au Poivre
- Thomas Keller’s salad of beets, walnuts and endives
- Christopher Grossman’s fondant potatoes
- Doug Psaltis’ pan-roasted hen of the woods mushrooms
- Aldo Sohm’s mashed potatoes
Nine Romantic Rhône Reds
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
Northern Rhône Reds
Jean-Louis Chave Sélection
St.-Joseph Offerus 2020
Score: 93 | $29
WS Review: Well-meshed and alluring, this red offers a generous core of cherry, plum and fruitcake spice, with pretty lilac highlights. Creamy on the full palate, with smoked meat notes and a sturdy spine of graphite. Shows impressive length and poise. Drink now through 2030. 3,300 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—Kristen Bieler
François Villard
Syrah Collines Rhodaniennes L'Appel des Sereines 2020
Score: 92 | $20
WS Review: Sanguine and enticing, with tar, smoke and earth backed by raspberry puree and cherry. Shows good integration and length, with generous shaved iron softened by singed apple wood and violet accents. Packs serious stuffing, staying impressively light on its feet through the perfumed, harmonious finish. Drink now through 2027. 10,927 cases made, 1,966 cases imported.—K.B.
Les Vins de Vienne
Crozes-Hermitage 2022
Score: 92 | $40
WS Review: A lovely freshness marks this well-made red, with smoked plum and blackberry puree revealing aromatic lift and racy energy. Singed bacon fat and dried thyme hang in the backdrop, with a subtle toasty apple wood thread. Drink now through 2032. 2,916 cases made, 800 cases imported.—K.B
Southern Rhône Reds
Château Mont-Redon
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019
Score: 93 | $46
WS Review: A massive, brooding red, this shows the burly side of Châteauneuf, with grippy tannins surrounding a well of black fruit and licorice flavors. Packs a pleasing kick of menthol and wet stone accents, which bring freshness through the long, nicely chewy finish. Delivers good energy and focus, with hints of bitter cherry. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse and Cinsault. Drink now through 2035. 1,204 cases imported.—K.B.
Château de Montfaucon
Lirac Baron Louis 2019
Score: 92 | $29
WS Review: A lot of iron-edged mineral notes underline the flavors of dried rose, brambly red fruit, dusty earth and toasted alder in this beautiful red. Tobacco leaf and mocha chime in, while menthol and black pepper add freshness. Full in body, with fine-grained tannins stitching everything together. Shows good harmony now and impressive definition. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2027. 3,800 cases made, 700 cases imported.—K.B.
Brotte
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Hauts de Barville 2022
Score: 92 | $35
WS Review: Polished and glossy, with supple waves of cassis and red currant flecked with a lot of spice and singed garrigue. Warm chestnut and graphite shavings move in, with loads of graphite bringing focus. A modern version, showing poise and polish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2035. 2,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.—K.B.
Domaine de la Charbonnière
Vacqueyras 2020
Score: 92 | $40
WS Review: Ripe and generous, this also has a brooding side, with black plum and cherry anchored by iron bolts and a pull of tar. Reveals notes of cumin and allspice that mingle with grilled mesquite smoke. With a hint of old-school charm, this is characterful and delicious. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2030. 1,300 cases made, 450 cases imported.—K.B.
Gabriel Meffre
Gigondas Ste.-Catherine 2021
Score: 92 | $40
WS Review: Appealingly chewy and meaty, with serious character behind perfumed red currant, dusty earth, baked cherry, ganache and licorice notes. Reveals tobacco and mesquite accents that smolder through a finish marked by a pleasing kick of bitter cherry. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 4,500 cases made, 400 cases imported.—K.B.
St.-Cosme
Côtes du Rhône 2022
Score: 90 | $21
WS Review: A hefty version of Côtes du Rhône, with a lot of stuffing, showing ripe black plum and black currant flavors layered with black pepper and grilled rosemary. Sturdy tannins hem in the creamy palate, with a kick of bitter mineral and graphite through the medium-length finish. Very solid. Drink now through 2028. 27,000 cases imported.K.B.
