Wine Spectator's
Advance

A SNEAK PREVIEW OF THE BUYING GUIDE FOR THE NOV. 15, 2023 ISSUE, FEATURING ALL OF THE SPECTATOR SELECTIONS

Wine Spectator’s Nov. 15 issue features editor and publisher Marvin R. Shanken’s exclusive interview with Caymus Vineyards’ co-founder Chuck Wagner. Plus, the issue’s tasting reports cover the latest releases of California Cabernet Sauvignon and Portugal’s table wines.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2019 • $175

Lushly fruited, this sends waves of crushed plum, boysenberry compote and blackberry paste out from the core, with a strong undercurrent of cast iron and smoldering tobacco to boot. Grippy and dense, but with a sense of polish and a note of purity in the guise of a pretty violet echo. Best from 2025 through 2040. 3,750 cases made.—J.M.

Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Laurène 2021 • $75

Rich and detailed, with a deep but graceful structure, offering rose petal, raspberry, orange peel and dusky spice flavors that build tension and polish toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2032. 3,029 cases made.—T.F.

Alfred Gratien Brut Champagne Cuvée Paradis 2015 • $135

A graceful Champagne that offers a generous range of creamed white cherry and ripe green apple fruit set in an elegant, finely knit frame of vivid citrusy acidity and satiny texture, with notes of marzipan, lemon curd, minerally smoke and saline. Shows a sense of delicacy that belies the rich expression, opening beautifully on the palate and in the glass. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now through 2035. 2,200 cases made, 150 cases imported.—A.N.

Tenute Capaldo Taurasi Gulielmus Riserva 2017 • $90

A gorgeous Taurasi, with an up-front burst of ripe fruit -- black cherry, wild strawberry and black plum reduction -- expanding on the palate and transitioning to a savory range of minerally stone and smoke accents. Reveals Mediterranean scrub, dried flowers and milled pepper, with fine, supple tannins swathed in the silky texture, while fresh acidity carries the flavor profile on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2032. 1,323 cases made, 250 cases imported.—A.N.

John Duval Plexus Red Barossa 2020 • $40

Complex, rich and elegant, showing notes of espresso, Kalamata olive, salted black licorice and spiced plum on a plush frame, with hints of dark chocolate. Reveals black walnut liqueur, wild blackberry and huckleberry flavors that linger on the long, peppery finish. Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2035. 2,000 cases imported.—M.W.

COLLECTIBLES

Abreu Cappella St. Helena 2019 • $675

A broad-shouldered, nicely toasty style, with a deep well of black currant, warmed cassis and fig paste at the core, laced liberally with cast iron, dark tobacco and warm earth notes. This is framed by singed cedar and alder accents through the slightly rumbling finish, where an espresso crema accent helps contrast that very dense core of fruit. Despite all its heft, this has cut on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2042. 267 cases made.—J.M.

Abreu Madrona Ranch St. Helena 2019 • $675

Dark and dense but very alluring, with a tease of sweet bay leaf and hints of Valrhona chocolate leading off, before the core of steeped plum, blackberry and cassis flavors roll through with authority. The finish growls with dark earth, sweet tobacco and warmed black currant reduction notes, which give this an old-school edge, though the structure is very polished in the end. A large wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through 2042. 438 cases made.—J.M.

Harlan Estate Napa Valley 2019 • $1,700

This is nicely rendered, with a core of dark currant and blackberry compote flavors, laced with a singed cast iron hint and backed by lively sweet bay leaf, violet and bramble accents. There’s a serious tug of earth through the finish, keeping this very grounded. Well-built, showing a slightly lighter hand on the oak treatment than usual. Best from 2025 through 2040.—J.M.

Kinsman Eades Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District Rhadamanthus 2019 • $285

Well-packed with dark currant, boysenberry and fig paste flavors, this is dense but defined, showing generous mulling spice, dried anise and singed mesquite notes that add fuel. Reveals tarry grip, but stays fresh and energetic through the finish despite its heft. Packs a late chaparral echo that leaves a mouthwatering impact. Best from 2025 through 2040. 172 cases made.—J.M.

Louis Roederer Brut Champagne Cristal 2015 • $400

This mouthwatering Champagne has an ethereal quality, with a frame of chiseled acidity and focused precision to the pointillisme-like, vibrant mousse. Yet this shows depth and generous expression, with the finely spun notes of patisserie apple and blackberry fruit opening beautifully on the palate and through the minerally finish, with notes of grated ginger, blood orange granita, salted Marcona almond and anise. Drink now through 2035. 4,596 cases imported.—A.N.

Dominus Estate Napa Valley 2020 • $299

This throws off dense kirsch and linzer torte aromas and flavors, along with a mix of smoldering tobacco, leather, warm paving stone and licorice root hints that provide a brooding edge on the back end. Surprisingly backward for the vintage and impressively done. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2040. 1,600 cases made.—J.M.

SMART BUYS

J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Basalte 2019 • $30

Gracefully structured, with a vibrant beam of cherry and raspberry flavors accented by stony minerality and dusky spices. Builds richness toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2030. 3,734 cases made.—T.F.

Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma-Napa Counties 2022 • $28

Fresh Fuji apple, pear and nectarine flavors are mouthwatering and juicy at the core of this white, but there are pretty accents for complexity and length, including a drizzle of wildflower honey, lemon curd, lemon verbena and fresh-grated ginger. Drink now. 48,002 cases made.—M.W.

Herdade do Esporão Alentejo Reserva 2020 • $25

This juicy red is well-knit and medium-bodied, with fine tannins and stylish flashes of spicy cedar and singed apple wood lacing the core of ripe black plum and mulberry fruit, with notes of Earl Grey tea and stone. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Trincadeira Preta. Drink now through 2026. 44,444 cases made, 4,500 cases imported.—A.N.

Goldschmidt Merlot Alexander Valley Chelsea Goldschmidt Guidestone Rise 2021 • $25

A vibrant Merlot that's a pleasure to drink, featuring snappy red currant and cherry flavors accented by grilled anise and pepper. Drink now through 2028. 2,500 cases made.—T.F.

M100 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2021 • $25

This handsome red offers tightly focused black currant, licorice and toasty mocha flavors that build tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2031. 4,900 cases made.—T.F.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner Alto Adige Valle Isarco 2022 • $22

This light-on-its-feet white is dry, tangy and orangey, with blood orange granita, orange blossoms and juicy tangerine acidity accented by hints of fresh tarragon and salty mineral. Drink now. 13,750 cases made, 3,300 cases imported.—A.N.

Terlato Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 2022 • $25

Fresh and balanced, with a citrusy overtone of grapefruit pith and citronella, this shows flavors of crunchy white peach, chive blossoms and minerally saline and stone, followed by a creamy finish. Drink now through 2026. 40,000 cases imported.—A.N.

Bodegas Valdemar Tempranillo Rioja Conde Valdemar Crianza 2019 • $20

A fragrant red, revealing overtones of milled pepper, dried dill and flowers, with a pleasing juiciness to the sun-dried cherry and raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied, with lightly chewy tannins and accents of mocha, licorice, smoke and graphite on the finish. Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano. Drink now through 2026. 40,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.

Frei Brothers Merlot Dry Creek Valley Sonoma Reserve 2021 • $17

Plump and generous, with jammy red currant, cherry and toasty cinnamon flavors that linger on the sleek finish. Drink now through 2028. 13,000 cases made.—T.F.

BEST VALUES

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier American 2022 • $16

Distinctive, aromatic and refreshing, this juicy white has hints of Fuji apple, lime zest, honeysuckle and chamomile, plus a core of ripe peach, apricot and melon. The mouthwatering finish reveals vivid acidity. Chenin Blanc and Viognier. Drink now. 150,000 cases made.—M.W.

Bookwalter Notebook 16NV Columbia Valley NV (2023) • $10

A sturdy blend, with generous cherry and toasty spice flavors that finish with zesty tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made.—T.F.

Cartuxa Fundação Eugénio de Almeida Alentejano White EA 2022 • $12

A fresh sipper, light-bodied and easy-drinking, with a pretty mix of ripe Gala apple, peach skin, orchard blossom and pickled ginger notes, ending with a crisp finish. Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Arinto. Drink now. 16,500 cases made, 6,750 cases imported.—A.N.

ABOUT THE SPECTATOR SELECTIONS

Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.

Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest potential to gain in value.

Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.

Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

Initials at the end of each tasting note indicate the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review. The tasters are as follows: Bruce Sanderson (B.S.); James Molesworth (J.M.); Alison Napjus (A.N.); MaryAnn Worobiec (M.W.); Tim Fish (T.F.); Aaron Romano (A.R.); Kristen Bieler (K.B.).